Continued engine cable installation

June 5, 2019 – I started to permanently install the engine cables. I’ll be glad when this is done.

I’m using the aluminum firewall eyeballs from Vans. I had previously drilled the holes in the firewall; I routed the cables through them and partially installed the eyeballs. Have a couple of issues with the attaching screws; I need to order a few more.

I connected the business ends of the cables. Here’s the mixture bellcrank:

I’ll post better pictures of each connection when they’re done.

I’m still working on connecting the cables at the throttle quadrant. I may grind each clevis down a little bit for clearance, since they’re so close together, but it’s pretty good as it sits right now.

Time: 3:45

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Miscellaneous Firewall Forward stuff

October 17, 2018 – I realized it’s been a while since I posted an update, so here goes…

Engine control cables

I started assembling the parts for engine controls: throttle, mixture and prop. I started with the mixture, since it’s a fairly complicated bellcrank system that reverses motion. The first problem that I ran into was that the mount bracket for the bellcrank does not fit as advertised on my engine. Right where this bracket is supposed to go, there is a drain plug in a boss on my Superior cold-air sump.

I found online where someone else had this same problem. They started by grinding down the height of the plug. So I did that, but the boss that the plug is in will not allow the bracket to sit in place.

I decided to trim the bracket until it does fit. After everything is installed and works, I’ll take the bracket off and make a new one. You can see that I removed a lot of material. That’s fine.

So I assembled the bellcrank and moved on.

I measured for the three cables, since I am using a throttle quadrant instead of the traditional push-pull controls supplied by Van’s. I ordered some from Van’s and just got them today. I also drilled the holes in the firewall at the three recommended locations. They’re just 1/2″ right now. I’ll take them to final size when I start test-fitting the cables.


Fuel Flow Transducer

I figured out where I’d like to mount the Red Cube. It will be inline between the servo and the flow divider, and I’ll mount it on the engine mount behind #3 cylinder. I had the long fuel hose that goes there…I sent it to Tom Swearengen at TS Flightlines. He took care of me. I’m a big fan…

Oil Temp Sensor

I installed the oil temp sensor as required…

Engine Electrical

I’ve been slowly working on cables for the battery, starter, etc. The only picture I have right now is the copper bar between the contactor and the relay. I replaced the one bar I had with two that total .125″, which is closer to the plans.

I got in touch with a guy who was in town and bored (he posted on Van’s Air Force). He was looking to see if anybody needed a hand with anything. So he came over today to visit, and we took care of a short list of items I needed an extra pair of hands to get done.

We installed the firewall pass-thrus, and I needed to remove the manifold on the firewall so I could get fittings in it. We removed it, installed the required fittings, and reinstalled it. If I ever have to take that manifold off again, I’ll install nutplates.

Time: 13:10

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Installed CHT and EGT probes

September 7, 2018 – Today I installed the CHT and EGT probes. I’ve ordered a lot of small items from Spruce, and I’m kind of on hold with a lot of things. This I could do today.

Pretty straight-forward; I used some anti-seize to install the CHT probes. These probes from Dynon have a quick-disconnect feature.

The EGT probes use a hose clamp setup to hold the probes. I drilled¬† 1/8″ holes in each exhaust pipe 3″ down from the flange on the cylinders. Insert the probe, tighten the clamp, that’s it.

Time: :50

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Installed Prop governor

September 6, 2018 – I installed the prop governor.

I wasn’t sure about the orientation of the governor on the engine. So I did some online research, and found the orientation that seems to be correct. I definitely had to reclock the control head. With the governor in the correct position on the engine, the control arm faced down, when it’s supposed to be up. The instructions tell you how to reclock it.

You just break the safety wire on the top screws, loosen them, and rotate the head to the desired position. I went 180 degrees out from the original position. I also had to install the bracket for the cable, so I had to loosen those screws anyway.

I installed the governor on the engine. The nuts are pretty hard to get on to torque. I’m pretty sure this whole project is going to be that way, and get worse all the time.

Time: 2:15

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