February 21, 2019 – I have the brackets for the engine controls back from powdercoating.
I installed the bracket for the throttle cable, then I was able to reinstall the #1 exhaust.
February 21, 2019 – I have the brackets for the engine controls back from powdercoating.
I installed the bracket for the throttle cable, then I was able to reinstall the #1 exhaust.
January 24, 2019 – I continued with the baffles.
I riveted the small doublers on the baffle for #4 cylinder, then went to fit the baffle. It fits tightly around the rocker box cover and it needed trimming so attach holes would line up.
I then located where I thought the oil cooler would mount. One detail on the plans sheet shows a reference 3/8″ margin from the edge of the oil cooler doubler to the edge of the baffle. So I located it there and back-drilled the holes from the doubler to the baffle. Then I removed the material in the baffle where the oil cooler would go.
All well and good…
Then there’s an oil cooler brace that has prepunched holes. Two issues…the holes are prepunched to #40; that’s fine, but the holes in the doubler that this brace matches up to are #30. Worse still, as I had everything located, these holes don’t line up.
Put the question out to the experts on vansairforce.net and learned two things. One was that I should wait to locate the oil cooler until the baffles are situated, the other was that maybe the doubler needed to be just 1/4″ from the edge of the baffle. That would make these holes line up. I’m less worried about the disparity between #40 and #30 holes; I’ll probably go ahead and make the rivets larger at that location.
I ordered a new CB-705A, which is the baffle with the oil cooler hole in it. I didn’t drill any other part yet…
There have also been huge issues with cracking at this location due to the weight of the oil cooler and vibration. I’ll be modding this area as almost everybody does. More on that later…
January 24, 2019 – I made the brackets that I needed to install the engine cables.
I ordered a 12″ x 12″ sheet of .063″ 4130 steel from Spruce. I made the new extended throttle cable bracket and the angle that mounts forward of the throttle quadrant to secure the cables there.
Here’s the old and new throttle cable bracket for comparison:
I’m waiting to get my modified mixture bracket back, then I’ll have all three pieces powder-coated.
January 10, 2019 – I continued work on the battery cables because I’m borrowing the crimper and the guy said he’d need it back.
I had to order some 1/2″ heatshrink in red and black to fit over these terminals. Once I had that, I made the cable from the contactor to the starter, and the ground from the battery to the firewall.
These pictures of the starter cable ARE NOT final installation, they are for routing and fitting. Hopefully this location will work.
January 10, 2019 – I decided I needed to start on the baffles so I could make sure items wouldn’t conflict when they’re installed.
Well, I barely got started…
The first step is to separate some parts from larger pieces.
I did that, and went to polish and deburr the edges. I use 2″ scotchbrite discs in a 90 degree die grinder. Well, the arbor I have been using decided to strip out, so I had to order a couple more of them. So now I’m stuck on this part…
January 10, 2019 – I have had some real trouble with the Prop control cable and the governor. With everything hooked up, including the cable at the throttle quadrant, I can’t get the governor arm to contact both stops. I can reach the high RPM stop, but I haven’t been able to touch the low RPM stop. The closest I’ve come is about 3/16″.
So after wasting a lot of time, I’ve decided to go ahead and install the cables, then see what RPMs I get when I run the engine, and go from there.
To back up a little bit, I couldn’t use the 48″ cable at all. It was several inches too short for the throttle control. I bought a 49.5″ for the throttle, I’m using 52.5″ for the mixture, and a 55″ for the prop. An EAA friend had the 55″ for me to try. It worked, so I gave him the 48″ for later use.
I bought AN486 clevises from Aircraft Spruce for the connections at the quadrant. Because of interference, I do need to narrow them a little bit and use slightly shorter pins, but this will work. This photo is from underneath the quadrant, looking up:
I got three firewall grommets from vans. These are the ones with the aluminum balls that clamp the cable. I took the holes in the firewall up to 1.079″ with a punch.
Then I made a template for the backplate screws, and drilled and deburred those.
I had to drill the holes in the balls up to the final size for clamping the cables. I went to .328 using a series of drills and reamers.
I have to make a new bracket to attach the throttle cable at the engine. The one I got from Vans in the kit needs to be lengthened by 1.5″ to accommodate the cable. The mixture bracket for the bellcrank was previously modified to fit; a friend from work is beefing it up by welding a gusset to it.
The aluminum bracket I made to secure the cables at the quadrant had an issue. I was getting ready to shape it and get it ready to paint, and I found a crack in the radius. So I ordered a sheet of steel from Spruce to make what I have to make, then I’ll get everything powder-coated and installed.
November 15, 2018 – Well, I complicated my own life by going with a throttle quadrant for engine control. I’ll be so glad when this part gets wrapped up.
I drilled holes in the firewall at the suggested locations for the throttle, prop and mixture cables using my punch set. The holes are 1″ right now, just large enough to pass the cable nuts through. I believe the final hole sizes will be 1 1/8″ for the cable pass-throughs I’ll get from Spruce.
I bought a 48″ and two 52.5″ cables. When I got them I routed them through the firewall to test fit. I used closed-cell foam to protect the cable jackets from the stainless edges.
I already know the 48″ cable is too short for the throttle. As near as I can tell, I need 51″. I’m waiting to order until I’m sure about the rest of them.
I had to slightly re-clock the prop governor because the cable went over-center at full travel. I also bent the bracket for the governor for a straighter cable approach.
Along with figuring out what cable lengths I need, I also need to make sure those cables are secure so I can get an accurate idea for routing and their lengths. The cables will be secured behind (forward of) the quadrant, so I started prototyping a bracket for that. Here’s my first one:
…and my third:
I think this one may be in the ballpark. I also ordered Aircraft Spruce part #05-01437 which is an AN486 with a 10-32 thread. These should have a deeper throat for attachment at the quadrant. I wasn’t getting full travel at the quadrant because the shorter clevises were hitting the arms. They are on the way.
October 17, 2018 – I realized it’s been a while since I posted an update, so here goes…
I started assembling the parts for engine controls: throttle, mixture and prop. I started with the mixture, since it’s a fairly complicated bellcrank system that reverses motion. The first problem that I ran into was that the mount bracket for the bellcrank does not fit as advertised on my engine. Right where this bracket is supposed to go, there is a drain plug in a boss on my Superior cold-air sump.
I found online where someone else had this same problem. They started by grinding down the height of the plug. So I did that, but the boss that the plug is in will not allow the bracket to sit in place.
I decided to trim the bracket until it does fit. After everything is installed and works, I’ll take the bracket off and make a new one. You can see that I removed a lot of material. That’s fine.
So I assembled the bellcrank and moved on.
I measured for the three cables, since I am using a throttle quadrant instead of the traditional push-pull controls supplied by Van’s. I ordered some from Van’s and just got them today. I also drilled the holes in the firewall at the three recommended locations. They’re just 1/2″ right now. I’ll take them to final size when I start test-fitting the cables.
I figured out where I’d like to mount the Red Cube. It will be inline between the servo and the flow divider, and I’ll mount it on the engine mount behind #3 cylinder. I had the long fuel hose that goes there…I sent it to Tom Swearengen at TS Flightlines. He took care of me. I’m a big fan…
I installed the oil temp sensor as required…
I’ve been slowly working on cables for the battery, starter, etc. The only picture I have right now is the copper bar between the contactor and the relay. I replaced the one bar I had with two that total .125″, which is closer to the plans.
I got in touch with a guy who was in town and bored (he posted on Van’s Air Force). He was looking to see if anybody needed a hand with anything. So he came over today to visit, and we took care of a short list of items I needed an extra pair of hands to get done.
We installed the firewall pass-thrus, and I needed to remove the manifold on the firewall so I could get fittings in it. We removed it, installed the required fittings, and reinstalled it. If I ever have to take that manifold off again, I’ll install nutplates.
September 7, 2018 – Today I installed the CHT and EGT probes. I’ve ordered a lot of small items from Spruce, and I’m kind of on hold with a lot of things. This I could do today.
Pretty straight-forward; I used some anti-seize to install the CHT probes. These probes from Dynon have a quick-disconnect feature.
The EGT probes use a hose clamp setup to hold the probes. I drilled 1/8″ holes in each exhaust pipe 3″ down from the flange on the cylinders. Insert the probe, tighten the clamp, that’s it.
September 6, 2018 – I installed a couple of items on the firewall; the wiring pass-throughs and the fuel line connection.
I found the Avery pass-throughs at Aircraft Spruce, so I bought two of them. These will be for the wiring. As is usually the case, I’ll be running engine monitoring and sensing wiring through one, and heavy electrical through the other.
I put one pass-through in each upper corner of the firewall. I bought a set of punches at Harbor Freight. I drilled a 3/4″ hole using a Unibit to accommodate the punch.
Put the bolt part of the punch through, then crawled inside and put the die in place and tightened it down by hand. Went back outside and tightened the bolt until the hole was cut.
I used the flange to drill the screw holes, and deburred everything. Used firewall sealant on both sides, and clecoed the flanges into place. I’ll need help to install the screws, but that part is done.
I also installed the fuel fitting that goes through the firewall. I opted to use the doubler that they have you install on the firewall at the very beginning of firewall construction. This doubler is for the optional Facet fuel pump, which I’m not using. This made more sense than installing another doubler just a few inches away when this one is not being used.
September 6, 2018 – I installed the prop governor.
I wasn’t sure about the orientation of the governor on the engine. So I did some online research, and found the orientation that seems to be correct. I definitely had to reclock the control head. With the governor in the correct position on the engine, the control arm faced down, when it’s supposed to be up. The instructions tell you how to reclock it.
You just break the safety wire on the top screws, loosen them, and rotate the head to the desired position. I went 180 degrees out from the original position. I also had to install the bracket for the cable, so I had to loosen those screws anyway.
I installed the governor on the engine. The nuts are pretty hard to get on to torque. I’m pretty sure this whole project is going to be that way, and get worse all the time.
September 6, 2018 – I assembled and installed the heat muff.
The heat muff takes air heated by the exhaust and routes it to the cabin for some semblance of heat. I installed it on the only stretch of pipe that was long and straight enough to accept it: on the pipe from #1 cylinder. Wasn’t sure about this spot, but I’ve seen it on other airplanes, so…
I needed 5 1/2 hands to put this together, but I figured it out.
August 29, 2018 – Well, that was pretty easy. I got the exhaust installed today.
I got the crossover tubes installed and torqued the pipes to 180 in/lb.
The hangers were pretty simple as well. Vetterman gives you clamps and everything you need to support the pipes at the exit.
I installed the lower cowl to check the space at the exit. Have lots of room there.
The pictures look like the pipes turn outwards, but that’s just the camera angle. They both point straight back.
I attached two angles at the aft corner bolts on the sump, then used the supplied hardware and rubber tube to connect to the clamps on the pipes. The clamps are supposed to be as far aft as possible to provide good support.
Once I got the vertical hangers in, I supported the pipes horizontally to each other. I had to cut the provided tubes because of the short distance between the pipes.
August 29, 2018 – It was time to start with all of the engine hookups.
I took the box from Vetterman out of my bedroom into the garage, and did a quick inventory. I had to run out and get some high-temp anti-seize, then I attached the pipes to the cylinders. Their instructions say to start with 3 and 4, then install 1 and 2.
The pipes are in place, but not yet torqued. I still have to install the crossover tailpipes.
August 29, 2018 – I’m putting the finishing touches on the fit of the cowl.
In the previous post, I ended up with a small gap at the leading edge lip of the cowl on both sides. I added some fiberglass at those spots and then filled it smooth.
I’m pretty tired of doing fiberglass work in this heat, so I set the cowl aside to start on the engine itself.
August 18, 2018 – I’ve finished the Skybolt fasteners for the cowl. There’s a few fit and finish items I have to try to take care of.
After drilling the actual fastener holes in the top cowl for the split lines that run fore and aft, I had to fill the cleco holes.
Meanwhile, I moved the flanges to the inside of the lower cowl, then I countersunk the rivet holes.
I prepped and deburred the flanges and clecoed them in place for installation.
I riveted them in place, and then installed the fasteners, and tried the fit of the entire cowl.
Pretty cool. I made adjustments on a few of the fasteners all the way around, and I had two receptacles that needed to be changed to floating receptacles. I installed and adjusted those.
My biggest problem right now is that I have a pretty healthy gap of about 1/8″ at the outboard leading edges of the cowl on both sides. I’m going to try just to add material to the top cowl at that location.
August 11, 2018 – Well, things are coming along nicely on the cowl.
I drilled the holes to size in the upper cowl. 15/32″ using a Unibit. At the holes at the upper corners where the engine mount is, I had to start them, and then finish the holes with the cowl off the airplane, because the Unibit hit the mount. This step is hard because there’s no solid way to cleco the cowl in place after the holes are drilled. I just had to be careful and make sure things were lined up as best as I could get them.
I mixed up a little bit of resin and flox and filled the cleco holes that I had drilled to get the cowl into position originally.
I riveted the receptacles for the upper cowl into the flanges.
Then I installed the collars into the cowl. These were really a tight fit, and most of them wouldn’t go in by hand. So I used a C-clamp and a socket to squeeze them into place.
I then installed the fasteners using the pliers.
I put the cowl on the airplane, and tightened the fasteners until they sat flush.
Once the fasteners are where you like them, you remove them by using a screwdriver and pressing down and turning to loosen them with a sharp motion. You have to do this because the receptacles are unlocked and will turn. The sharp motion just releases the pins on the fastener without turning the entire receptacle barrel.
To lock the receptacles, you remove the temporary lockpin and then turn the barrel to the 11:00 – 7:00 position. The collar locks into place with a light snap. That’s it.
I repeated the process with the lower cowl. The lower cowl seemed a lot harder to keep lined up and to drill precise holes. As it turns out, only two fasteners on the firewall, one on top, and one on the bottom, don’t quite line up. So I ordered some floating receptacles from Skybolt.
Now it’s time to set up the fasteners that go down the cowl split on the sides.
I decided to lay these flanges out externally, then they will be installed internally later. I drew a line from the lower fastener on the upper cowl, so everything’s in line. I marked the same spacing as on the firewall, 3.25″, and went from there. I positioned each flange centered on the marks I made, and clecoed them at the receptacle rivet locations.
I just carried that line forward until I ran out of room at the front. The flanges will be riveted to the lower cowl, so I laid out that line and went with .9″ for the rivet spacing.
I started on the left side and realized I’m short two flanges, because of my mistake installing them down in the belly where the exhaust fairing of the cowl is. So I’m going to make a couple.
This cowl is almost done. I’m really happy with how it’s turning out.
July 18, 2018 – I think I’m on the home stretch for the cowl. 🙂
I like the fit all the way around, so I decided to go ahead and drill for the Skybolt fasteners around the firewall.
Before that, though, I drilled holes for the screws in the area behind the spinner. This also helps to support the cowl so I can accurately drill for the other fasteners.
Skybolt gives you little tools that fit in the fastener holes of the flanges so that you can drill a centered pilot hole. They’re kind of like drill bushings that I’ve used elsewhere on the airplane. You secure them in the holes you want to drill, then do the pilot holes. The holes will later be taken up to size with a Unibit.
I back-drilled through these bushings, but there are areas where you can’t get on the backside because of the engine mount. So I used my triangulation trick that I’ve used before for blind holes. You basically mark two or three lines that center on the hole you want to drill, and mark the dimension on that line.
Drill at the intersection, and you should have a centered hole in the correct location.
I’ve got all the holes piloted except for the ones right adjacent to the gear legs. I’m going to see if I can investigate at Oshkosh whether I need fasteners that will ultimately be underneath the gear leg fairings.
I previously left off the flanges on the firewall that are in line with the horizontal split of the cowl, because I wanted to make sure those flanges were in the correct location. I marked on the skin where the split line was, then I located, drilled and installed these two flanges.
The Skybolt instructions say to install all the fasteners at the firewall, then do the fasteners at the horizontal split lines toward the front. I’m going to do it that way. But I believe I’m done now until after Oshkosh. Good thing I don’t have money yet for a panel… 🙂
July 11, 2018 – Well, it’s been a while, but I’m beginning to see the light at the end of this tunnel. It’s been hot, and I haven’t been interested in handling fiberglass lately, but we had a bit of a break and now I’m making progress.
I wish I could describe specifically what I’ve done to get the cowling this far, but you just have to sand here, sand there, and eventually it falls into place.
I trimmed the aft edge where it meets the firewall. I used 2″ tape to give a known dimension, then marked the cowl and cut it.
The hardest part of dealing with this thing is supporting it so I can attempt more or less accurate cuts. I decided it would be easier to support the cowl at the firewall if I went ahead and installed the flanges for the Skybolt fasteners. After playing with the spacing, I decided that 3 1/4″ worked all the way around. I started with the top, then I did the sides, then the bottom.
The Skybolt flanges are individual, so they can be trimmed to nest together.
I finished up by installing the bottom flanges.
Then I realized that I’d gotten ahead of myself and didn’t need fasteners at the exhaust fairing of the cowling. Ha. So I removed the flanges at that location.
I think I’m really close right now. I’d like to look at a couple of airplanes. Maybe if I can hold out a couple of weeks I’ll look at some at a little fly-in in Oshkosh…
May 14, 2018 – I got hold of Van’s instructions for fitting the cowl without the prop in place. The instructions say to cut PVC spacers 2 1/8″ long for a constant-speed prop, then attach the spinner backplate using those spacers.
It turned out that I had jumped the gun modifying my backplate for the prop already, so I had to borrow one.
I ran 2″ tape around the firewall at the edge. This provides a known 2″ distance for cutting the aft edge of the cowl later on.
I placed the top cowl on the engine. I don’t have much extra material at the firewall to play with, but it’ll work out.
I taped some 1/4″ pieces of molding to the front lip of the cowl to act as spacers to give me a uniform distance from the prop backplate. I’ve also padded the top of the engine with a towel and some magazines to give me the correct height.
One nice thing about the airplane being on its gear is that now I can roll it outside on nice days to work on it.
I wanted to see how the lower cowl fits. so I cut out slots to clear the gear legs, then put it up into place.
I tried using a strap to hold it together, but the strap just slid forward because there’s really nothing for it to hold onto. I temp-drilled a couple of holes for some clecos to hold the cowls in place. It has taken a little while just playing with the cowls, and standing back and thinking about what’s going on, but I eventually developed a plan.
The worst fit on the cowl is the nesting area just outside the spinner in the inlets. I have to sand a little bit, then put everything back together. The fit is slowly improving.
I am using the Skybolt fasteners on my cowl instead of the stock hinges. I decided to start working on the flanges that are installed on the firewall before I worry too much about the final cowl fit.
The first step with these flanges is to get an idea of where the fasteners will be that are on the cowl split lines at the firewall, then locate flanges from there. I figured out a tentative cut line for the aft edge of the cowl, and the split line between the cowls, then marked a likely location for the fasteners on the left and right sides. These fasteners will be the intersecting fasteners between the firewall row and the cowl split rows going forward.
I marked where that flange would probably be located, then started placing flanges up around the top of the firewall. The Skybolt instructions suggest 3.5″ spacing between fasteners. I couldn’t get even spacing that way, but 3.25″ worked pretty well. The center flange might require some adjustment, but that measurement worked for me all the way around.
The flanges have joggles and they overlap, so once I finally drilled and clecoed them, I took out each one and trimmed the overlap, based on where a rivet would be located.
Still have a lot of work to do, and things might look a little rough in these pictures, but I feel better about this than when I started.